The World Cup: It's Not Over Until I Say So

Judith Flumenbaum is a big NYC hipster. She gets free passes to exclusive clubs in Cape Town, her computer is the size of a calculator, she has her own personal chef named Grace Carpenter, and she never has to do her homework because, well, she is that cool. Judy is also the first to know about hot, new events. So, when news broke that Cape Town World Cup officials were seeking to rekindle the magic of last month, Judy was the first to know. As a result, we got tickets to the opening games of the South African PSL (Premier Soccer League) at Greenpoint Stadium (a World Cup host stadium). Last night, with vuvuzelas in hand, and nosebleed tickets in out pockets we headed downtown along with anyone who's anyone in the Mother City.

From the moment we stepped of the bus downtown and began the fan walk to the stadium, we could hear the steady buzz of the vuvuzela blasting from within the massive white arena. The first match featured a beautiful header to put local Vasco de Gama FC in the lead over perennial contender Orlando Pirates ( Johannesburg, not Florida). But, the pirates used a bicycle-kick-goal and an easy tap-in to win 2-1. In the second match of the double header, local favorite Ajax Cape Town cruised to a 2-0 win over Bloemfontein Celtic, who had an awesome fan section, but no chance at topping Ajax.

The World Cup spirit was alive and well once again for Friday Night Football, a Cape Town Tradition before apartheid. This double-header was the first friday-nighter since before apartheid, so it was an emotional night for the locals who filled the stadium to capacity and never stopped blowing their vuvuzelas... neither did we, my lips are still chapped! One of the best nights of my life.

When Africa is Just Too Africa

From the first day that we arrived in Cape Town, we have learned that while the city seems just like any you might find in the US... this is still Africa. So, anytime things just aren't working out we just say: "T.I.A." (This is Africa). And everyday, without fail, we have an opportunity to use this phrase, whether its because the internet is down for a week, someone gets pick-pocketed, the grocery store closes at 5, there is a homeless person pooping on your street, people on the train ride with the doors wide open, or you get yelled at everyday by passing mini-busses. Things are just different here, and if you start to worry about it, you will never be able to stop worrying.

So, everyday there is something that happens, and you just look at your bru and say "T.I.A." without making a big deal about it, but every so often Africa is Just TOO Africa. Here is an example:

Saturday, August 21, 2010

I wake up in the morning after freezing all night, per usual. I usually sleep in my sleeping bag in my bed because there is no heat in any houses here... and it's quite cold at night. It's about 10am and the city has decided to do some utility work on our street, which means there will be no power for the rest of the day. Typical. Well, my roommate Ben and I are starving and we want some burgers, so are about to go into Rondebosh to eat at Steers (South African McDonalds). But wait, because we have no electricity, the gate in front of out house won't open (it only opens with our remote key)... and the gate is locked until after 3pm according to a city notice. Great.

We find a gate propped open down the street, so we can finally get out and the others can finally get in. T.I.A. Steers is delicious and filling. Now I can focus on getting up to the UCT library to do some homework... lots to do. Back on our street, someone has closed the gate that was propped open and we are really stuck outside. Keep in mind that our fence is about 6-7 feet tall and covered in spikes to keep the bad guys out... and apparently us. This would happen.

A local girl who is stuck on the inside finds a spot to climb up the fence, but she needs Ben to pretty much lift her over the fence. So, now its just us who can't get over. I eventually climb up the fence, barely avoiding the excessive spikes and get to the other side. Ben follows, but ends up getting his pants stuck on a spike... minor blue-jean rip. We get our books and things out of the apartment and are ready to hit up the library, but Ben notices his leg is bleeding a little bit. He pulls up his pant leg to find... he is the second resident of Kendal #8 in need of a hospital visit.

A Giant Coca-Cola Crate Man

Judy and Taylor, just two of our many mothers here in Cape Town, accompany him to the emergency room. Uh-oh, this week hospital workers are on strike! Classic Africa. Those of us not going to the hospital find that the library closes at 2 on Saturdays... I guess not to supportive of studying here. While the hospital visit takes about 4 hours before he is seen by a doctor, Grace, Natalie, and I decide to get some groceries... Checkers is already closed... we have to walk to Pick n' Pay.

We finally get back to the apartments and the hospital crew finally get back from a day at the E.R... and we all just think: "T.I.A"

It's Discovery Channel Shark Tweak!!!

Another weekend, another epic excursion. Just the usual here in South Africa.

Once again, Monday through Friday was not very adventuress on my end. Reading, writing papers, and making flow-charts can really put a damper on being extreme. But, come Friday afternoon about 20 of us boarded the mini-busses for the annual Interstudy Excursion Weekend. Just a 1.5 hour drive from Cape Town is the coastal town of Hermanus. Here, the wonders of ocean wildlife mingle with the constant opportunities for adventure.

We all stayed at the Hermanus Backpakers where we were welcomed by a delicious braai (the South African term for a barbeque). Afterwards it was off to bed in anticipation for the activities of tomorrow. In the morning, we split into two smaller groups with each alternating between exploring the town and sea kayaking in the whale reserve. Obviously the sea kayaking was more fun, so i'll skip the details on the shopping in town. In groups of two (Grace and I made an excellent team) we all got into kayaks and fought the massive waves to exit the old harbor and make it out beyond the rocky coastline. While we didn't encounter any whales close-up, there was a sighting off in the distance and a brief encounter with a seal. Most likely the wildlife was scared off by all the splashing that was going on between all the boats... our boat was obviously superior in all categories of the water fight. Per usual. After a really quick jump off the boats we headed back to the harbor and back onto dry land, if only for a moment.

We quickly ate our lunches and rushed across town to the new harbor where we boarded another boat... this time for up close whale watching! In just twenty minutes of so we found ourselves with a sighting of a pod of whales. Fortunately, we got more than just a distant sighting as the boat was able to drive all the way into the middle of the herd!!! We were literally a few feet from these massive whales as they slowly glided through the water. They never did the impressive jumping out of the water and flopping back down (breaching), but we had plenty of other epic whale activity.

After another night at the hostel, which included a short walk downtown for some live music and a night swim in the ocean, we awoke before dawn to prepare for shark cage diving!!! Doesn't get more extreme than that, does it?

In a large metal cage hanging off the side of out boat, we all took turns edging into the freezing water and getting dangerously close to wild Great White Sharks! As one of the boat crew dumped fish guts and blood into the ocean to attract the sharks, another crew member essentially fished for the sharks by throwing a massive tuna head into the water and drawing these huge sharks within a few feet of the cage. We saw at least four different sharks, but honestly, they all looked the same... large and in charge. Once people started to get sea-sick and the sharks began to loose interest, we made our way back to land where we were whisked away to Death Valley... a place for the fearless to frolic.

If things hadn't been wild enough we took part in riding ATV's through the beautiful countryside and paint-balling against the local terrorist group. Racing around the hillside vineyards, orchards, and farms was an absolute blast and it culminated at the top of a ridge overlooking the town of Hermanus and the ocean. Back at the beginning of the ride we put on our paint-balling suits which, as one of the leaders Sebe put it, made us look like homeless people. We were armed and dangerous homeless people, however, and we all worked to beat the workers at the paint ball range in a game of SWAT vs. terrorists. Unfortunately we lost, but we had a blast crawling around in the woods, getting nailed with paint, and just getting our butts kicked by professionals.

African Holidays

Because these unfortunate South Africans don't celebrate awesome holidays like Columbus Day, Presidents Day, and Labor Day they have Womens Day on August 9th (the other 364 days are for men here, as it should be). This menstruating holiday provided us with a long weekend for an ADVENTURE up the garden route (a stretch of highway up the eastern cape).

To set a tone for the adventure to be had, there were fifteen American students in three rental cars and no experience with driving on the left side of the road. Five of us with early classes on Friday were able to get on the road out of Cape Town by 11am with the other cars following after 2pm. Because we had extra time before we met for dinner in Mossel Bay, our car developed a knack for having as many adventures as possible along the way. These came in the form of roadside tweak sessions (just running around and taking pictures of the beautiful countryside), stops to farmers markets and farm stands, and if that wasn't enough..... Fairy Sanctuaries!!!

In the little town of Swellendam, I had the urge to have an adventure so I pulled of the highway and into this Dutch village where our lives would be changed forever..... Grace, the Co-Pilot, noticed a sign on the road for a Fairy Sanctuary and so we followed signs up the hillside until we arrived at a gated garden that was just screaming MAGICAL (and also screaming THE PEOPLE WHO INVENTED THIS WERE ON SOME SERIOUS DRUGS). Still, not to shy away from a epic experience, the five of us entered a land of Gnomes, Fairies, Dragons, Angels, Mushrooms, Wizards, and spiritual awakening. Words really can't describe this place so...

In Mossel Bay we stayed at a really cool hostel and also tried some seafood... not very good, but probably more the fault of the restaurant. In the morning we took a leisurely drive up the coast with frequent adventures. It turns out we went too leisurely because we were late for our appointment for BUNGEEEEEE JUMPING! Fortunately, they had room for us at a later slot and we all did the most extreme event that ever was.

By far, the scariest thing I have ever done! But also one of the best things I have ever done!

Back in the car, we made our way to Jeffery's Bay. Jay Bay, as the locals and myself call it, is a really laid back surfer town on the Indian Ocean. Our hostel was run by a bunch of surfer brus who suggested a restaurant on the beach for us to try. And try we did, it was the best meal i've had thus far in Africa! In the morning we had a full day to see the countryside and make it to our next hostel back where we did the bungee jump. Some people went to a lion sanctuary (not nearly as cool as its fairy counterpart) but I joined a group going to the secret waterfall.

Up a long dirt road that reminded me a lot of Ridgway we arrived at a farm with two signs on the gate. One said "Waterfall" and the other said "Beware of Biting Dogs." Just as the signs said, there was a waterfall and biting dogs. I nearly got a second African hospital visit after 2 or 3 attacked me while I was trying to get directions... the second scariest event of the road trip. After screaming and running back into the car, a farm woman gave us directions to the secret waterfall. The waterfall was tucked down in a little canyon and flowed into a deep pool where we jumped into from the top of the waterfall and where the zipline ended! Really fun and as usual, extreme. We had a lot of fun until on the drive out we got a flat tire... and then we still had a lot of fun. Judy quickly turned on the country hymnal: "Jesus Take the Wheel," and Ross and I got to work on changing the flat, which we did Nascar fast!

After a short visit to Port Elizabeth (Nelson Mandela Bay) we began the drive back towards Cape Town and our last hostel, the Tube 'N' Axe. Not as sketchy as it sounds! Here, we all had a group dinner and played some serious games before getting to bed before our long drive back. Back to Cape Town, back to school, and back to reality.

It was Hectic

            This weekend unofficially began on Thursday with a visit to the Springboks Pub in nearby Newlands… none of the Springboks team was sighted there, but there were tons of local youth with euro-mullets and all. Classic South Africa. Then, after class on Friday, my roommates and I joined a couple other pals with another visit to Newlands for a rugby match! Once again Western Province won easily, this time over the Barloworld Toyota Pumas, from the Johannesburg/Pretoria area. This game was especially fun because we scored a lot of trys and it was a night game… yes, it was the South African version of Friday Night Lights.

            On Saturday just about everyone I know here was at the Old Biscuit Mill Market, or OBM if you’re really cool. It takes place every Saturday morning about halfway between where I live in Rosebank and Downtown Cape Town. Essentially, it is the best thing in the world. There is live music, fresh produce, fresh baked goods, homemade sauces, craft beers, local crafts, fresh fish, smoothies, waffles, paella, ostrich burgers, bagels, ect. It’s really crowded, but every booth has free samples and relatively inexpensive goods. I had a super-dank caramel waffle and hot cider plus I also bought a dozen bagels and some Thai Pesto Sauce. Afterward we took a cab downtown to the Green Street Market where there are a bunch of touristy crafts and souvenirs, along with a bunch of really annoying salespeople who ruined the whole place for me.

            Those of us fed up with feeling forced to buy useless junk walked through downtown to the waterfront where a homeless woman attacked me and we has several ultra-extreme road crossings. In the end, we got a beer and fish and chips at the Waterfront Brewery. Our meal was complemented by a soon-to-be married man, dressed in a tutu, fishnet-leggings, and shredded wife-beater, asking for wedding money while his pals laughed from afar and drank beer. Nearby is the waterfront mall and home to the Canterbury Store where Springboks’ jerseys and clothes are sold. I did a little gift shopping for family… and myself.

Sunday brought another day at the beach and a couple more hours of improving my surfing… which I don’t think actually happened. Regardless, it was a good time and a fun way to spend the day before school started up again.